Lake Kivu
Rwanda’s western border is shaped by Lake Kivu—one of several large freshwater lakes along Africa’s Great Rift Valley. It marks the border between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). Lake Kivu is Rwanda’s largest lake and the sixth-largest in Africa.
The real charm of this region lies in driving between the lakeside towns. It’s a scenic and peaceful route connecting Nyungwe Forest National Park and Volcanoes National Park. The road curves gently through the hills and mountains beside the lake, from Gisenyi to Cyangugu, with Kibuye around the halfway point. Around every bend, another stunning view appears. Eucalyptus trees line the road, and banana terraces cover the hills. Villagers smile and wave. Children often shout “Abuzungu!”—a Kinyarwanda word for foreigners, like “Muzungu” in Swahili. By the end of your trip, your arm will be tired from waving, and you’ll feel like royalty.
The lake’s three main towns are about 3–4 hours apart. However, roadworks during our last visit caused some delays.
Gisenyi (Rubavu)
Gisenyi, now officially known as Rubavu, is a sprawling town on Lake Kivu’s northern shore. It was once a popular colonial beach resort. Today, its lakeside is lined with aging mansions, stylish bars, and hotels—some of international standard. The nearby Rubona area also has attractive lakeside lodges.
What to do in Gisenyi (Rubavu):
Gisenyi has a pleasant public beach. It can get busy on weekends, but some hotels offer private beaches and water sports.
Just north of town lies the Imbabazi Orphanage, founded by American Rosamund Halsey Carr. After the 1994 genocide, she returned at age 82 and turned her damaged home into a safe haven for orphans. More than 400 children have lived there. The house, surrounded by colorful gardens, resembles an English cottage. It even has an elderly Labrador. Today, Imbabazi supports the local community and plans to open a cultural center in Carr’s honor. If you’d like to visit, your driver or guide should contact the orphanage in advance.
Kibuye (Karongi)
Kibuye, also known as Karongi, lies about 100 km south of Gisenyi. It may be the most beautiful town on Lake Kivu. Surrounded by pine and eucalyptus-covered hills, it has a lush, tropical feel. In August, thousands of yellow-billed kites soar overhead during their migration. Many hotels here are perched above the lake, offering sweeping views and breathtaking sunsets.
What to do in Kibuye (Karongi):
Take a boat trip to nearby islands. Napoleon Island is home to a large colony of fruit bats. Amahoro Island is known locally for its seasonal sundowner bar.
You can also visit the genocide memorial church, located on a quiet hill above the lake. It features vibrant stained-glass windows and offers a peaceful place for reflection.
Cyangugu (Rusizi)
Cyangugu, pronounced “Shangugu,” is now often referred to as Rusizi. This old border town sits at the southern end of Lake Kivu. Its worn buildings reflect its history as a key trade post. Today, it’s a good base if you want to visit both the lake and Nyungwe Forest National Park, which is just 45 minutes away. However, accommodation options are limited.
Gisenyi (Rubavu) and Cyangugu (Rusizi) both sit near the DRC border. Be sure to check the latest travel advice from the FCO before heading there.